Bastide or Not caviar again...

Shortly after the departure of its prior chef, we dined at Bastide. In many ways, the evening was lovely. But the food, while uniformly excellent, was, well, tedious.

We had the tasting menu. It was more like the hit-parade of the petit-bourgeois: lobster tail (a bit tough), seared ahi tuna, rack of lamb (rare), diver scallops, beef shortrib, creme brulee, and a cheese plate where cheeses were identified by the fromageur by country of origin and animal. I found myself grateful not to have "a blini" with paddlefish roe on it. The white wine was chilled as if it were Bartles & Jaymes. And it was $200 a head. By way of contrast, I recently dined at Sona, and the first four courses of the nine-course tasting menu were unusual fish preparations, daring and interesting. Its cheese plate consisted half of different blue cheeses, with a tiny bit of history or description (not enough to bore) accompanying them in arrangement. Were it not for the somewhat haphazard service, it would have been superb (for example, we received our neighbors' appetizer of foie gras, and - as it was a tasting menu with unannounced courses - we were able to feign ignorance until we had eaten it - the most luscious foie gras I had ever tasted, both light and rich).

I will give Bastide this: we were seated outside in a fantastic setting with a very attentive (if somewhat ignorant) waitstaff. It was a great three hour meal, regardless of its lack of gastronomic personality and focus.